Chapter 1 - How To Choose Your Sailboat

To join the fraternity of sailing enthusiasts and enjoy the new era of sailboat living, your first step is to select a boat. Unfortunately, there's no one sailboat that's perfect for all uses. If there were, there would be no need for the bewildering variety of sailboats that are available. A choice that the prospective sailboater should consider, therefore, is between a faster craft, designed primarily for speed, and a somewhat slower boat intended for cruising and loafing around a bay or lake. Racing is the more limited of the two uses, and calls for a greater degree of skill and a good set of reflexes on the part of the skipper. Sailing purely for pleasure and relaxation, on the other hand, requires only a reasonable mastery of the basics, and places less demand on the skipper's reflexes and ability to make snap decisions. (Lest that business of reflexes bother you, it should be said that sailing even sailboat racing doesn't require the split-second reacting time of driving a car on today's highways.)

Also among the factors to consider are the location in which you are going to do your sailing and how much you can afford to spend for the initial cost and for maintenance.

To give you some idea of the range of sailboats available to persons primarily interested in sailing for fun, the following seven popular models will typify the range:

The Kitten, a 10-foot sailboard, is an excellent boat for beginners to learn sailing with.
 
It's lively and sporty and a lot of fun to sail. It can't be swamped and is unsinkable; thus it builds up the confidence of some novices who believe sailing is difficult. Actually, the Kitten will lead the beginner to experimentation more readily than the more conventional type of boat, and he will learn sooner the relationship of wind to sail. This combination of painless instruction and exhilarating fun has made this type of sailing craft very popular and has converted many a newcomer to the sport of sailing. The boat can be easily carried by one person and the entire rig can be kept in the basement, attic, or garage when not in use.

The Seven Eleven is another good first have-fun-on-the-water boat. This craft (7 feet, 11 inches long by 4 feet 2 inches wide) is light in weight (89 pounds) and can be easily car-topped or put in back of a station wagon and hauled upon the dock or beach. Its two-piece mast assembles quickly, and the whole boat can be stored in a basement, a garage, or an attic. In addition to being low in cost, the Seven Eleven handles easily and is remarkably safe and stable. This boat was designed for two purposes. The fact that it tows well makes it excellent for a yacht tender, and because of its size it can be stowed easily on board. The Seven Eleven also makes a delightful cruising boat for the youngsters when visiting a new harbor. In addition, the boat was designed to fit the needs of those people looking for a first boat for the small fry, because it can be used as a rowboat, as a sailboat, and, with an outboard, as a power boat.

The Sprite represents unusual value because it's the only boat of its kind with such a wonderful combination of features lively sailing ability, stability and safety, and convertible rig. This craft gives the beginner a wide range of sailboat "feeling." It can be rigged with a single sail as a catboat, or with a mainsail and jib as a sloop; and it also flies a small spinnaker to provide training in the important and exciting technique of downwind sailing. Stability and safety have been generously provided in this boat. There are flotation tanks at bow and stern, and it will easily float its crew when swamped.

The Ospray is designed to provide the extra safety, ease of handling, and convenience so important in day-sailing fun for the whole family. There is room for two to sleep overnight. For a family picnic the roomy cockpit will accommodate six in comfort, and a small cuddy affords protection from bad weather. The Ospray is perfectly balanced and will sail well in both light and heavy winds. It will take a 5-horsepower outboard.

The 16½-foot Day Sailer is probably the most versatile boat of its type anywhere in the world. Designed by famed Uffa Fox of England, it offers wonderful sailing and speed for the seasoned sailor, yet its remarkable ease of handling and its stability are ideal for the beginning skipper and his family. The unusually roomy and unique cuddy-cabin arrangement is perfect for all-round use. The Day Sailer has room enough for six adults, and can sleep two or four overnight. It's ideal for all types of water sports . . . day sailing or racing, overnight camping or fishing. An outboard motor can be mounted on the stern for exploring narrow creeks and bays or hurrying home at the end of a perfect day. It can be trailed easily and can be launched by two.

The Rhodes 19 is the only fiberglass-plastic boat on the market at the present time that is available with either keel or centerboard. The hull was designed by Philip Rhodes and the rig and interior by your author. The roomy cockpit will accommodate up to eight persons, and two can sleep under its cabin. Cruising, camping, and racing can all be enjoyed in this boat. The Dolphin, designed by Sparkman and Stephens, is one of the most successful of all midget centerboard ocean racers. Adapted for fiberglass from the best of Bill Shaw's Trina and the Shaw 24 designs, this boat contains a maximum of living, racing, and cruising value in its 24 feet. Actually, its compactness makes it possible to carry it on a trailer for overland trips to vacation spots. And of course the Dolphin conforms to the Midget Ocean Racing Club (MORC) rules and delivers a truly outstanding performance on the racing beat. The masthead rig gives maximum performance for racing, yet under the working jib and mainsail it handles with the ease of a boat half its size. If your interest in sailboating lies wholly in racing competition, your best choice of a craft is a one-design class boat. All of the boats mentioned above could be considered one-designers in the true sense of the term, but they are built primarily for pleasure boating and are not as often so designated as those used for racing. Actually, the Rhodes 19, the Day Sailer, and the Sprite are often raced, and several racing fleets are in existence. In one-design sailboats, the specifications are standardized; each boat in a class is as similar as

possible to its sister-ship in sailing characteristics and dimensions. This means that, within a class, success in racing depends upon the skill of the skipper rather than upon his ability to pay for expensive refinements built into his craft. It also means that you may race in competitions almost anywhere that you find a group with boats of your class.

The Seven/Eleven The Sprite rigged with a single sail or as a catboat.

There are some two hundred or more active sailboat classes in the United States, and it's rather difficult to make any suggestions as to which class boat may be best for you. But since most one-design fleets are affiliated with local yacht clubs and organizations, it is suggested that a prospective sailboat owner select a class that is common in the area to assure racing competition and perhaps the benefit of a local sailing instruction program. For instance, you won't have as much fun sailing an International 14 in waters where all of the sailing is done in Flying Dutchmen. Even if you purchased the craft at a very favorable price, it's no bargain unless you can get all possible enjoyment out of it. Therefore, hang around the waterfront, talk to owners, and in particular see what class of boats are sailing and racing.

Since in this book we're concerned primarily with sailing for fun, we'll limit our discussion to the popular all-round boats described earlier in this chapter. However, the sailing techniques given later in this book will hold good for one-design class boats, too. If you wish further information on class boats, I suggest that you read Robert Scharff's book, Sailing One-Design Class Boats, published by G. P. Putnam's Sons.

The Sprite rigged with two sails or as a sloop. This craft has an overall length of 10 feet and a width of 4 feet 7 inches.

Many beginners learn their basic sailing procedures in simple non-class boats and advance later, to one-designers. Remember that, when you're "moving up," the money spent on a sailboat is an investment. The resale value of sailboats is extremely high (depreciation is very small when compared to power boats and automobiles), and there is always a ready market.

Anatomy Of A Sailboat

One of the first steps toward becoming a sailor is to become familiar with your boat's basic parts. Although all modern sailboats are different, to some degree, in hull structure and detail, the general working parts and sail plan are essentially the same.

The Hull

Basic parts. The forward part of any boat is called the bow; the rear is the stern. When one moves toward the bow, one moves forward. When one goes toward the stern, one moves aft. Looking forward toward the bow, the left-hand side is the port and the right-hand side is the starboard. (In giving steering directions, the U. S. Navy now uses left and right for port and starboard, though most amateur sailors still prefer the traditional usage.)
 
The diagram here gives the names of the other parts of the hull that you should be familiar with; their functions will be explained on succeeding pages of this book and in the glossary.

Construction. The hull construction material of a sailboat is an all-important consideration. While wood was the most popular material since the dawn of history, the majority of the boats manufactured for sailboat living today are of fiberglass, molded in layers of polyester plastic resin. The plastic, reinforced with fiberglass, is probably the strongest and most durable of all materials used in small-boat construction. The material is also immune to teredos (sea worms), termites, fungi, and bacteria; it doesn't rot; and water absorption is low.

While maintenance costs are greatly reduced with plastic hulls, it should be pointed out that the material isn't completely indestructible. Because of the great impact strength, the material won't dent or take an out of shape set there are no internal stresses. Fiberglass will often deflect an impact and return to its original shape; if it does puncture or break, it can be repaired easily. Although plastic hulls don't require paint for preservation, they do need it for anti-fouling when used in saltwater and certain fresh-water areas. Also, the topsides of a fiberglass plastic boat may need paint for color, because the molded-in color will gradually fade with exposure to sunlight.

Since fiberglass hulls don't have the buoyancy of wood, flotation gear (a compartment containing buoyant material) is provided in most sailboats presently marketed. At the present time, the normal life of a fiberglass boat is still to be determined. The first hulls were constructed during the latter part of World War II, and as yet no serious deterioration has been detected. Laboratory tests, simulating actual use conditions, have shown these hulls to last at least thirty years with little or no indication of strength loss or deterioration of materials.

Two common types of fixed keels: Full or standard type (left) and fin type (right).

Two common types of centerboards: (top) dagger type and (bottom)

standard type. The latter type also may be operated by handle or lever.

The Rhodes 19 a roomy, safe, comfortable, and fast craft that is 19 feet in length and has a beam of 6 feet 9 inches. It carries 176 square feet of sail. Typical sail plan for sloop rig.

Shapes. Sailboat hulls are divided into two definite shapes centerboard and keel. The main function of both is to furnish lateral resistance to keep the boat from sliding sideways through the water. There the resemblance ends.

The centerboard hull is shallow and has a wood, metal or fiberglass plate which moves up and down through a box on the centerline of the hull. Standard centerboards, the most commonly used type, are fitted with pins at their forward lower corners. At the after upper corner of each there's a line or chain arranged to control, about one-third of the way down, the depth of the centerboard.

Another style of centerboard that is often found in small boats is the dagger type. This type requires a trunk and slot, but it isn't hinged; it is bodily lowered or raised. In fact, it can be entirely lifted out when the boat isn't being sailed. Adjustments are provided so that the depth of the centerboard below the bottom can be controlled, and often the slot and trunk are somewhat longer than the centerboard is wide so that the centerboard can be shifted forward or aft to provide perfect balance in relation to the center of sail pressure.

When sailing in shoal water or before the wind, and when at anchor, the centerboard is raised up into the trunk so that little, if any, of it projects below the bottom of the sailboat. However, most boats won't sail well except dead before the wind, when the centerboard is up.

For stability, this type of boat relies on its wide beam and the weight of the crew. A centerboard craft can be capsized, but this is counteracted by the knowledge that it won't sink if swamped if buoyancy is built in. Furthermore, it is relatively inexpensive to build and maintain, and its light weight and fairly flat bottom make it easy to trailer. The draft of a centerboard sailboat can be as little as 3 inches. Most small sailing craft in the United States are of the centerboard type.

The keel in a small sailboat is built as an integral part of the hull and has a ballast weight attached to its bottom. If you have a choice between a sailboat with a keel and one with a centerboard, you should remember that each is a good craft if used under the circumstances for which it was designed. In an area where the water is uniformly deep, the keel boat is generally preferable. If the water is shallow, the centerboard type is the best craft. The latter is also the better if speed is desired. Suppose two boats are built to the same lines and equipped with the same sail plan. On one, a centerboard is aboard; in the other a keel is installed. The craft with the centerboard will be the faster on all points of sailing except to windward, where the greater underwater area of the keel boat will allow it to point higher into the wind and make less leeway. Before the wind, the board on a centerboard boat can be raised, thus reducing the wetted surface. When coming about, the centerboard craft will be somewhat quicker because it has less area of lateral plane and because what area it does have is well centered. In centerboard boats the centerboard must be adjusted for the different points of sailing (see Chapter 4). This, of course, isn't necessary with a fixed keel.

The Rig

Within the scope of this book there are two basic rigs or sail plans the cat and the sloop.

The former, usually called a catboat rig, has a single mast, forward in the craft, and carries a single sail called the mainsail (mains'l). This type of rig in small boats is the simplest and easiest to learn in. However, this rig won't sail very close into the wind and coming about, the going from one tack to the other, is sometimes difficult. Most of the familiar small sailing dinghies (under 10 feet) are cat-rigged.

The sloop-rig has a single mast, but in addition to the mainsail it carries a jib or headsail forward of the mast. The sloop gives better control than the catboat because the sail area is broken up into two sails, which makes handling easier. For this reason, the sloop-rig is recommended for all boats over 10 feet.

The basic rigging of a sailboat can be divided into three major categories: spars, standing rigging, and running rigging. The general term spar is given to the mast and boom on the rigging drawing illustrated on page 19.

Standing rigging consists of those lines or stays that are permanently fixed and that serve simply as supports for the mast. Those at the side of the mast are referred to as sidestays, or shrouds. If your boat has a jib, a forestay or jibstay runs from the top, or near top, of the mast to the bow, and serves as a runner to which the jib is fastened by snap hooks and on which it's raised and lowered.

Running rigging consists of halyards or ropes used to hoist the sails and sheets, or ropes used to trim the sails to their proper position in relation to the boat's course and the wind's direction. (Rope in this sense isn't a nautical word; instead we say lines.) The running rigging is usually passed through blocks or small pulleys which minimize the friction on each line. Each halyard has its own cleat on which it is "made fast" when the sail is raised. (You never "tie" a line or halyard, always "make it fast.")

Typical racing one-designer the Flying Dutchman. This class boat was adopted by the International Yacht Racing Union in 1954 and was chosen as the two-man centerboard boat for the 1964 Olympic Games.

The Sails

The sails are possibly the most important parts of a wind-powered craft's "anatomy." They could be compared to a motor or engine in a powerboat. They are what makes the boat go. Without them a sailboat is as useless as powerboat without its engine. Therefore, before going any further, let's examine a typical sail to become acquainted with its parts and general nomenclature. You can refer to the drawing of the mainsail as you read on.

As you can see, the mainsail is essentially triangular in shape, and therefore has three edges and three corners. Its leading edge, or that attached to the mast, is called the luff. Its bottom edge, that which is attached to the boom which extends at right angles to the mast, is called the foot. And the longest, or trailing, edge is referred to as the leach. To prevent the leach from either sagging or flapping, depending upon the state of the wind, battens are inserted in special pockets along it. These battens are narrow, smooth, and thin but fairly stiff slats of wood, aluminum, or plastic. Once inside their pockets, the battens are held secure when the wind fills the sail.

The topmost corner of a triangular sail is its head; its trailing corner is called the clew; and the lower leading corner, that at the right angle formed by the mast and boom, is the tack. To protect against strain, each of these corners has a triangular patch of reinforcing material. For attachment to the lines operating the sail, each of these patches has a grommet, or metal eyelet. As you probably suspect by now, each of these grommets has a name too. That at the head is the head cringle; the others are the tack cringle and clew cringle.

The jib is the smaller, triangle-shaped sail rigged forward of the mainsail. It fits in the area between the mast, jibstay, and deck. Its tack is fastened close to the deck at the jibstay to which the snaphooks on the jib's luff are attached. Its curvature is controlled by two jib sheets a port sheet and a starboard sheet and the placement of the jib-sheet leads.

The spinnaker is a sail designed to increase the boat's speed in certain sailing positions (see Chapter 4) and for use in very light airs when a lot of extra sail area is needed to catch what little there is of a breeze. Used in place of or in conjunction with the jib, it is a rather large sail, made of the very lightest of materials (usually nylon), and designed to belly out even in the weaker breezes. To catch any air that may be moving, the spinnaker's lower corner is kept extended by means of a short spar called the spinnaker pole or boom. Control of the spinnaker's other corner is maintained through a sheet.

As you will remember, a catboat carries but one sail a mainsail. The sloop has a rig consisting of two or more sails mainsail and jib and/or a spinnaker. Almost all sails today are made of dacron synthetic cloth, which is extremely strong and very hard to stretch out of shape. Dacron also is difficult to soil or stain, resists rot and mildew, and will last for an indefinitely long period of time if properly cared for. (As mentioned above, spinnakers are usually made of nylon.)

Another popular "hot" racing one-designer the International 14. This craft is the The Dolphin the midget centerboard ocean racer. Mercedes Benz of the small-boat world.

Anchor types: (A) Danforth; (B) Mushroom; (C) Northill; and (D) Navy. 

Sailboat Accessories

When you buy a complete boat, including the sails, it will arrive ready to sail. All that is required is to rig the boat and launch it (see Chapter 3). In addition to the standard equipment, most boat manufacturers have available such extras as a spinnaker, boom crutch, cockpit cover, outboard motor bracket, oarlocks, and floorboards.

In addition, the following gear should be aboard and can be considered essential:

Oars. It isn't wise to go for a sail in your boat without at least one oar to come to your rescue in case you are becalmed. (If there's wind enough to move the smoke from a cigarette, it will move a sailboat. However, it's possible to be becalmed, and this is why an oar is important.) One oar can move a 20-foot boat. Remember, too, that an oar can assist you in many ways such as freeing your boat if you should run aground. A paddle, of course, can be substituted for an oar.

Horn or Whistle. To signal others in case fog rolls in.

Life preservers. Both for your safety and to conform with Coast Guard requirements, you'll want only Coast Guard-approved cushions or jackets aboard. Look for the cloth tag which gives this information. Carry enough for the maximum number of people you expect to have aboard.

Tools. Pliers, pocket knife, and screwdriver will have many uses.

Bailing bucket or Pump. When you are sailing in a heavy breeze, your boat may take in a little water over the side. In a small boat, a sponge or bailing bucket may be enough to bail with, but on a larger boat you'll need a pump. Also when your boat is on a mooring and it rains, you'll find a pump a handy device for getting rid of the rainwater.

Anchor. The size and the kind depends on why you want it. If you need an anchor to hold your boat in one place while you fish, the mushroom type anchor will do. A 12-pounder is safe for boats up to 19 feet on calm, protected water free of current or strong winds. If you want to sleep aboard your boat or be away for a few hours, you'll need a patent type anchor such as a Northill, Navy, or Dan-forth. An 8-pounder will hold most boats under 14 feet long. The 13-pounder is safe up to 20 feet. The amount of line to be used with your anchor will determine its holding power (see Chapter 5). For sailboats 20 feet and under, use 100 feet of ⅜-inch nylon rope.

LIGHTS. A search or flash type is always handy to have on board.

Sailboat accessories: Bailing bucket, sponge, pump, marline, pair of 6-foot oars and oar-locks, air-rollers, life preserver cushions, 10-pound Navy anchor with 100 feet of ⅜-inch nylon rope.

Extra line. Extra line on any sailboat is an absolute must! There may be an occasion when you will need a tow, and the extra line can be used for this purpose. You might also need a painter a line from the bow ring of your sailboat to be used when you tie up at a dock. Also an extra line can come in very handy if you should experience a "man overboard." The extra line should be of the same size as that used for anchoring.

Air rollers. A pair of these are indispensable if you trail your boat or beach it.

All of the above equipment can be purchased from your local marine dealer. In addition to this gear, and if storage space aboard permits, the following items may prove useful while out on the water: an outboard; a portable radio to provide the latest weather information; fenders, used to protect the boat's top-sides when docking; thermos-jug, for drinking water; compass; and foul-weather gear, in case bad weather comes in while you are sailing.

Trailer For Your Sailboat

Trailers are now available so that you can take your boat places by highway. While the smaller boats present few difficulties, some of the larger ones do. For example, most keel-type boats need special trailers to handle the keel, and the boat rides awkwardly high. But for the average all-round sailboats previously mentioned, a trailer is almost a must. No longer is it necessary to keep your boat moored in a permanent anchorage during the boating season. With the sailboat, it's a simple matter of hooking the boat trailer to the hitch of the family car and taking off to favorite sailing waters.

There are many advantages in having a trailer for your sailboat besides being able to do your sailing when and where your fancy dictates and as far from your main base of operations as time and money allow. Not the least of these, by any means, is the advantage of being able to keep the boat at home. While it's there you are not worrying about whether it's being properly looked after, whether it's being used without your permission, whether it has gone adrift or been run down. In your back yard or garage, between trips, you can perform any necessary maintenance jobs. In this way, maintenance costs are reduced to a minimum. Storage, shed rent, and wharfage fees don't concern you. Thus, from the economic standpoint, it doesn't take a trailer very long to pay for itself in dollars and cents. And that isn't taking into account all the fun and convenience involved.

Typical sailboat trailer. Note method or holding the mast when the boat is trailered.

Whether you select one of the trailers designed especially for sailboats or one of the standard types that will accommodate sailboats, be sure that it will: a) protect your boat from losing shape; b) provide maximum safety and car-riding comfort on the road; c) meet all local and state trailer regulations; and d) permit dry launching and loading with a minimum of physical effort. Either of the two basic types of trailer construction boom and frame will do an adequate job. The boom type emphasizes keel support, but includes broad rollers or padded bunkers to distribute hull weight properly. The frame type emphasizes hull support, but includes either roller or channel support for the keel.

When selecting the size of your trailer, the best rule of thumb we know is: If the total weight of your fully-outfitted boat is within 100 pounds of the rated capacity of any particular size of trailer, get the next larger size. Next year you may have a different boat and it may be a larger size. Your local marine dealer will help you select the proper size.

For full information on how to handle your trailer, see Chapter 6.

Buying A Sailboat

For the newcomer to the sport, the best procedure is to buy a new boat. You can go to a local showroom, pick out the boat you want, perhaps take a trial sail, and then buy it. If there are no dealers carrying the boat you want, you may order it by mail directly from the manufacturer and it will be shipped to you by freight. You can obtain the addresses of the leading manufacturers from boating magazines such as Rudder, Yachting, Skipper, Popular Boating, and Motor Boating. It is far better, however, to purchase a new boat directly from a local dealer, since he can service and stand behind the warranty much better than the manufacturer.

What about a second-hand sailboat? It can sometimes save you money, but, in most cases, the newcomer should be very cautious. Unless you have had a lot of experience with boats, it will pay you to have the boat checked by an expert or purchase it from a reputable dealer or boatyard. The established marine dealer can't afford to misrepresent, overcharge, or fail to make good any shortcomings. He will regard you as a long-time customer and may even give you a break on used equipment in the hope of uptrading you later to a new and bigger sailboat.

There's often a strong temptation to get a boat much larger than you need for a bargain price. But buying too small a boat is a worse mistake and a much more common one. Aside from economy, the most obvious reason is that the beginner thinks that the smaller boat will be easier to handle, therefore safer. Small boats do respond very promptly to handling and mishandling. A small boat is often an overloaded boat, therefore uncomfortable and unsafe, when used in lively weather. Your local marine dealer can help you decide which is the best boat for you. In any case, you should always buy the right boat for your needs, rather than making a compromise, even if it means that you must obtain a loan to finance it.
So popular is sailing today that most banks and commercial loan firms will finance your new sailboat (sometimes second-hand ones, too) in much the same way as a new automobile. Financing can be arranged through the dealer, directly with your own bank or other lending institution. A down payment of from 20 to 30 per cent of the purchase price is required by most companies. Interest rates and duration of contracts vary with the amount of money extended. You will also find that loans are obtainable for sailboat repairs, overhauls, and insurance, by using your boat as security.

Insurance

It's only common sense to protect your boat investment with insurance. Boat insurance policies usually are figured for a specific period of time during which the boat will be in use. Most policies also state specific limits within which the boat will be operated. However, it's possible to sail beyond the stated limits by notifying your insurance agent and having your policy properly endorsed. Most boat insurance gives broad protection, including protection against liability for injury to anyone on the owner's boat or any boat he may collide with; against the cost of medical payments for personal injuries; against damage to the owner's boat; and against liability for the injury of anybody hired to work on the boat.

Your author has helped develop specialized sailboat policies which give maximum all-risk protection. Don't buy just any policy; make sure you have all the coverages to give you complete protection. Boat accidents are on the rise due to the increasing use of boats.

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